Cog Extracts (PE) xa mus rau cov khoom cog nrog me me lom molecules thiab polymers ua lub ntsiab lub cev, uas yog tsim rau lub hom phiaj ntawm kev sib cais thiab purifying ib los yog ntau zoo Cheebtsam nyob rau hauv cov nroj tsuag raw cov ntaub ntawv los ntawm lub cev, tshuaj thiab tshuaj lom neeg. Piv nrog rau cov tshuaj pleev ib ce, tshuaj pleev ib ce npaj nrog cov nroj tsuag rho tawm raws li cov khoom xyaw nquag muaj ntau yam zoo: kov yeej qhov tsis zoo ntawm cov tshuaj pleev ib ce uas tso siab rau cov tshuaj synthesis, ua rau cov khoom muaj kev nyab xeeb; Cov khoom ntuj tsim tau yooj yim absorbed los ntawm daim tawv nqaij, ua rau cov khoom zoo dua; Ntau cov haujlwm tseem ceeb thiab lwm yam.
Tsuas yog los ntawm kev xaiv cov nroj tsuag uas tsim nyog thiab ntxiv qhov tsim nyog ntawm cov nroj tsuag extracts rau cov khoom kom zoo nkauj tuaj yeem ua rau tag nrho nws lub luag haujlwm. Lub luag haujlwm tseem ceeb ntawm cov nroj tsuag rho tawm hauv cov tshuaj pleev ib ce yog: moisturizing, tiv thaiv kev laus, tshem tawm freckle, tiv thaiv tshav ntuj, tiv thaiv corrosion, thiab lwm yam, thiab cov nroj tsuag rho tawm yog ntsuab thiab nyab xeeb.
Moisturizing nyhuv
Lub moisturizing kev ua tau zoo ntawm cov tshuaj pleev ib ce yog ua tiav los ntawm ob txoj kev: ib qho yog cov dej-xauv nyhuv ntawm hydrogen bonds tsim ntawm humectants thiab dej molecules; Lwm qhov yog cov roj tsim ib zaj duab xis kaw ntawm daim tawv nqaij.
Lub npe hu ua moisturizing tshuaj pleev ib ce txhais tau hais tias cov tshuaj pleev ib ce muaj cov khoom xyaw moisturizing los tswj cov dej noo ntawm stratum corneum, thiaj li ua kom cov luster thiab elasticity ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Raws li nws cov yam ntxwv, cov tshuaj pleev ib ce moisturizing feem ntau yog muab faib ua ob hom: ib qho yog siv cov dej khaws cia uas tuaj yeem ua ke nrog dej ntawm daim tawv nqaij kom moisturize stratum corneum, uas yog hu ua humectant, xws li glycerol; Lwm yam yog ib yam khoom uas tsis muaj dej nyob hauv dej, uas tsim cov zaj duab xis lubricating ntawm daim tawv nqaij, uas ua lub luag haujlwm sib khi kom tsis txhob poob dej, kom lub stratum corneum tswj tau qee qhov dej, uas yog hu ua emollient lossis txias, xws li vaseline, roj thiab siv quav ciab.
Muaj ob peb cov nroj tsuag hauv cov nroj tsuag uas muaj cov nyhuv ntawm hydrating thiab moisturizing, xws li aloe, seaweed, txiv ntseej thiab chamomile, uas muaj cov nyhuv moisturizing zoo. Zhang Qi thiab lwm tus tau muab rho tawm aloin thiab kawm txog nws qhov kev ua haujlwm moisturizing: aloin muaj qhov ua tau zoo moisturizing thiab nqus dej noo. Thiab nws muaj qee qhov kev sib raug zoo nrog lub sijhawm. Kev nqus dej noo ntawm aloin hauv cov av noo ib puag ncig zoo dua li hauv qhov chaw qis qis. Ntxiv aloe moisturizing cov khoom xyaw rau hauv cov khoom tu tawv nqaij moisturizing yog non-toxic thiab harmless, ntsuab thiab noj qab nyob zoo.
Anti-aging nyhuv
Nrog lub hnub nyoog nce, daim tawv nqaij pib pom kev laus, feem ntau suav nrog kev txo qis ntawm collagen, elastin, mucopolysaccharide thiab lwm cov ntsiab lus hauv daim tawv nqaij mus rau qhov sib txawv, atrophy ntawm cov hlab ntsha muab cov khoom noj khoom haus ntawm daim tawv nqaij, txo qis elasticity ntawm cov hlab ntsha phab ntsa. , maj mam thinning thiab o ntawm daim tawv nqaij epidermis, thiab txo qis ntawm subcutaneous rog, uas intuitively manifested li wrinkles, chloasma thiab senile plaques.
Tam sim no, cov kev tshawb fawb yav dhau los ntawm qhov ua rau tib neeg kev laus tau sau cov ntsiab lus hauv qab no:
Ua ntej, qhov nce thiab kev laus ntawm cov dawb radicals. Dawb radicals yog atoms los yog molecules nrog unpaired electrons, uas yog generated vim lub homogeneous cleavage ntawm covalent bonds. Lawv muaj cov tshuaj lom neeg ua haujlwm siab, thiab dhau mus rau peroxidation nrog unsaturated lipids los tsim Lipidperoxide (LPO). Cov khoom kawg ntawm cov dawb radicals, malondialdehyde (MDA), tuaj yeem hnov mob nrog cov tshuaj feem ntau hauv cov cell nyob, ua rau txo qis ntawm biofilm permeability, kev puas tsuaj rau D-NA molecules thiab cell puas.
Qhov thib ob, ultraviolet B (UVB) thiab ultraviolet A (UVA) nyob rau hauv tshav ntuj tuaj yeem ua rau cov duab ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Ultraviolet hluav taws xob feem ntau ua rau tawv nqaij laus los ntawm cov txheej txheem hauv qab no: ① DNA; kev puas tsuaj; ② Hla-txuas collagen; (3) txo cov tshuaj tiv thaiv kab mob los ntawm inducing txoj kev inhibitory ntawm antigen stimulating teb; ④ Cov reactive dawb radicals heev cuam tshuam nrog ntau yam intracellular qauv ua rau puas hlwb thiab cov ntaub so ntswg; ⑤ Ncaj qha inhibit kev ua haujlwm ntawm epidermal Langerhans hlwb, ua rau photoinhibition, thiab ua rau lub cev tsis muaj zog ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Tsis tas li ntawd, tsis yog-enzymatic glycosylation, metabolic ntshawv siab, matrix metalloproteinase laus thiab lwm yam yuav cuam tshuam rau daim tawv nqaij laus.
Raws li ib tug natural elafin, cov nroj tsuag rho tawm, xws li Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi, Sanguisorba officinalis L. noob, Moringa oleifera L., Polygonum hydropiper L., Forsythia suspensa, Salvia miltiorrhiza Bge, Angelica sinensis, thiab lwm yam, tau ua kom pom tseeb ntawm kev tshawb fawb hauv xyoo tas los no. LEE JinYung et al. tau kawm txog kev sib txawv thiab dej ntawm Salvia Miltiorrhiza extract ntawm daim tawv nqaij epidermis. Cov txiaj ntsig tau pom tias Salvia Miltiorrhiza extract (ESM) tuaj yeem txhawb kev qhia ntawm filaggrin hauv tib neeg keratinocytes thiab AmoRe tawv nqaij, yog li txhim kho cov haujlwm ntawm epidermal sib txawv thiab dej, thiab ua si lub luag haujlwm tiv thaiv kev laus thiab moisturizing. Toshiya Masuda thiab lwm tus tau muab cov txiaj ntsig zoo los tiv thaiv dawb radical DPPH los ntawm cov nroj tsuag noj tau thiab siv rau cov khoom tsim kom zoo nkauj, nrog cov txiaj ntsig zoo. Li Xiaojing et al. Extracted Polygonum cuspidatum los ntawm dej kub immersion txoj kev kom tau crude extract, thiab ces tau crude extract los ntawm polyamide kem chromatography, thiab ua ib tug series ntawm qualitative thiab quantitative tsom xam. Cov txiaj ntsig tau pom tias Polygonum cuspidatum extract muaj qee yam cuam tshuam rau elastase, yog li ua si lub luag haujlwm tiv thaiv kev laus thiab tiv thaiv wrinkle.
Freckle tshem tawm cov nyhuv
Cov tawv nqaij xim sib txawv ntawm tib neeg lub cev feem ntau yog nyob ntawm cov ntsiab lus thiab kev faib tawm ntawm melanin hauv epidermis, cov ntshav ncig ntawm dermis thiab lub thickness ntawm stratum corneum. Cov tawv nqaij tsaus nti lossis tsim cov pob zeb tsaus yog feem ntau cuam tshuam los ntawm kev sib sau ntawm melanin, oxidation ntawm daim tawv nqaij, keratinocyte deposition, tsis zoo ntawm daim tawv nqaij microcirculation thiab toxins deposition nyob rau hauv lub cev.
Tam sim no, cov nyhuv ntawm freckle tshem tawm tsuas yog ua tiav los ntawm kev cuam tshuam rau kev tsim thiab kev loj hlob ntawm melanin, thiab ib qho yog tyrosinase inhibitor. Kev hloov pauv ntawm tyrosine mus rau dopa thiab los ntawm dopa mus rau dopaquinone yog catalyzed los ntawm tyrosinase, uas ncaj qha tswj kev pib thiab ceev ntawm melanin synthesis thiab txiav txim siab seb cov kauj ruam hauv qab no puas tuaj yeem ua tiav.
Thaum ntau yam ua rau tyrosinase nce nws cov haujlwm, melanin synthesis nce, thiab thaum tyrosinase kev ua haujlwm raug txwv, melanin synthesis txo. Brenner M et al. qhia tau hais tias arbutin tuaj yeem inhibit qhov kev ua ntawm tyrosinase thiab thaiv cov synthesis ntawm dopa nyob rau hauv lub concentration ntau yam tsis muaj cytotoxicity ntawm melanin, yog li inhibiting zus tau tej cov melanin. Liang Cheng, Yeon Jae Ho thiab lwm tus tau kawm txog cov tshuaj lom neeg hauv cov rhizome ntawm tsov dub thiab lawv cov nyhuv whitening, thiab tshuaj xyuas cov tawv nqaij khaus.
Cov txiaj ntsig tau pom tias 17 lub tebchaw (HLH-1 ~ 17) raug cais tawm, cov uas HLH-3 tuaj yeem cuam tshuam kev tsim ntawm melanin, yog li ua tiav cov nyhuv whitening, thiab cov extract muaj qhov khaus qis rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij. Ren Hongrong thiab lwm tus tau ua pov thawj los ntawm kev sim siab tias cov cawv txiv ntoo ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab muaj txiaj ntsig inhibitory rau kev tsim ntawm melanin. Raws li ib tug tshiab cog-derived whitening tus neeg sawv cev, nws muaj peev xwm muab tov nrog tsim nyog cov tshuaj pleev ib ce kom haumxeeb tshuaj pleev ib ce nrog kev tu tawv nqaij, anti-aging thiab freckle tshem tawm.
Kuj tseem muaj cov tshuaj lom melanocyte, xws li endothelin antagonist pom nyob rau hauv cov nroj tsuag extract, uas tuaj yeem cuam tshuam kev sib xyaw ntawm endothelin thiab melanocyte membrane receptor, inhibit qhov sib txawv thiab kev loj hlob ntawm melanocytes, thiab yog li ua tiav lub hom phiaj ntawm inhibiting melanin ntau lawm los ntawm ultraviolet. hluav taws xob. Frédéric Bonté et al. qhia tau hais tias tus tshiab Brassocattleya orchid extract tuaj yeem cuam tshuam qhov kev loj hlob ntawm melanocytes, thiab nws muaj peev xwm ua kom pom tseeb ntawm cov tawv nqaij dawb thiab ci ntsa iab thaum ntxiv rau cov mis kom zoo nkauj. Zhang Mu thiab lwm tus tau muab rho tawm thiab kawm txog kev rho tawm ntawm Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi, Polygonum cuspidatum thiab Sanguisorba officinalis. Cov txiaj ntsig tau pom tias cov extracts tuaj yeem cuam tshuam cov cell proliferation hauv ntau qib, cuam tshuam cov kev ua ntawm tyrosinase hauv hlwb, thiab txo cov ntsiab lus ntawm melanin hauv hlwb, yog li ua tiav cov nyhuv ntawm freckle tshem tawm thiab whitening.
Sunscreen muaj nuj nqi
Feem ntau hais lus, cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub uas nquag siv hauv tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub tshuaj pleev ib ce tau muab faib ua ob pawg: ib qho yog ultraviolet absorber, uas yog cov organic compound, xws li ketone; Lwm qhov yog tus neeg saib xyuas ultraviolet, uas yog, tus neeg saib xyuas lub hnub ci, xws li TiO2 thiab ZnO. Txawm li cas los xij, ob hom tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub no tuaj yeem ua rau tawv nqaij khaus, tawv nqaij ua xua thiab txhaws ntawm daim tawv nqaij pores. Txawm li cas los xij, ntau cov nroj tsuag ntuj muaj cov txiaj ntsig zoo ntawm cov kab hluav taws xob ultraviolet, thiab tsis ncaj qha txhim kho lub hnub ci kev ua haujlwm ntawm cov khoom los ntawm kev txo cov hluav taws xob puas los ntawm ultraviolet rays rau ntawm daim tawv nqaij.
Tsis tas li ntawd, piv nrog cov tshuaj pleev ib ce thiab cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub lub cev, cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub hauv cov nroj tsuag muaj qhov zoo ntawm cov tawv nqaij tsawg dua, kev ruaj ntseg photochemical, kev nyab xeeb thiab kev ntseeg tau. Zheng Hongyan thiab lwm tus tau xaiv peb cov nroj tsuag ntuj, uas yog dermatan, resveratrol thiab arbutin, thiab kawm txog kev nyab xeeb ntawm lawv cov tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub tshuaj pleev ib ce thiab kev tiv thaiv los ntawm UVB thiab UVA los ntawm tib neeg kev sim. Cov txiaj ntsig tau pom tias qee cov nroj tsuag ntuj tso tawm cov txiaj ntsig zoo tiv thaiv ultraviolet. Cov lus qhia Cov tshuaj tiv thaiv hnub ci ntawm tartary buckwheat flavonoids tau kawm. Nws tau pom tias daim ntawv thov ntawm flavonoids nyob rau hauv qhov tseeb emulsion yog compounded nrog lub cev thiab tshuaj pleev thaiv hnub, uas muab ib tug theoretical hauv paus rau yav tom ntej daim ntawv thov ntawm cov nroj tsuag sunscreens nyob rau hauv tshuaj pleev ib ce.